Signs Your Tree Needs to Come Down

Nobody wants to remove a tree unnecessarily. Mature trees add value to property, provide shade, and take decades to replace. But keeping a dangerous tree is a liability—to your home, your neighbors, and anyone walking underneath it.

This guide helps you identify trees that may be hazards, understand the difference between treatable problems and terminal ones, and know when it's time to call a professional for an assessment.

Signs of a Dying or Dead Tree

No Leaves (Or Dead Leaves) in Growing Season

The most obvious sign. If it's June and your tree has no leaves, or the leaves are brown and dead while neighboring trees are green, something is seriously wrong. A few dead branches might be normal; a completely bare or dead canopy in summer is not.

Fungal Growth at the Base

Mushrooms or fungal brackets growing at the base of a tree or on the trunk often indicate internal rot. The visible fungus is just the fruiting body—the actual organism may have been consuming the tree's wood for years. Large fungal growths, especially shelf-like brackets, suggest significant internal decay.

Peeling or Missing Bark

Bark is a tree's protective skin. When it falls off in large patches without being replaced by new bark, it usually indicates the tree is dying. Some peeling is normal in certain species (like birch), but exposed bare wood that doesn't heal is concerning.

Trunk Cracks and Splits

Deep vertical cracks in the trunk, especially if you can see into the interior wood, compromise structural integrity. A tree can look healthy from a distance while being structurally compromised. Multiple cracks or splits are particularly dangerous.

Leaning That's Getting Worse

Many trees naturally grow at an angle and are perfectly stable. But if a tree that was upright is now leaning—especially if you can see exposed roots or lifted soil on one side—the root system may be failing. Progressive leaning is an emergency.

Signs of Structural Problems

Major Dead Branches

Dead branches will eventually fall. A few small dead twigs are normal. Large dead limbs—especially in the upper canopy—are hazards. Arborists sometimes call large dead branches "widow makers" for good reason.

Hollow or Decayed Trunk

Trees can survive with some internal decay because they grow from the outside. But extensive hollowing compromises structural strength. If you can stick your hand into a cavity, or if tapping the trunk produces a hollow sound over large areas, the tree may be structurally unsound.

Co-Dominant Stems with Included Bark

When a tree splits into two main trunks (co-dominant stems) with bark growing into the junction instead of forming a solid union, that junction is weak. These splits are prone to failure, especially under wind or ice load. The tighter the V-shape, the higher the risk.

Root Problems

Root issues are easy to miss because you can't see most of the root system. Warning signs include:

• Mushrooms growing in a ring around the base
• Heaving soil or exposed roots on one side
• Recent construction or soil disturbance near the tree
• Severed roots from previous excavation work

Location and Risk Factors

A questionable tree in the middle of an empty field is different from the same tree overhanging your bedroom. Consider:

• What's in the fall zone? House? Cars? Children's play area? Public sidewalk?
• How often are people underneath it? Deck, patio, walkway?
• Are there power lines nearby? Falling branches can take out power and create fire hazards.
• How exposed is the tree to wind? Trees at the edge of a grove or on hilltops face more wind load.

A tree with moderate problems in a high-risk location may warrant removal when the same tree in a low-risk location could be monitored or pruned.

What Can Often Be Treated (Not Removed)

Not every problem requires removal. Consider alternatives when:

• Only some branches are affected: Targeted pruning can remove hazards while preserving the tree.
• Disease is caught early: Some diseases and pest infestations can be treated if identified early.
• Minor structural issues: Cabling and bracing can support weak unions in otherwise healthy trees.
• Soil/water problems: Sometimes trees decline from reversible environmental stress.

A qualified arborist can assess whether treatment is viable or whether removal is the only responsible option.

When to Call a Professional

Get a professional assessment if you notice:

• Multiple warning signs from the lists above
• Any signs of structural problems in a tree near structures or high-traffic areas
• Sudden changes in the tree's appearance or lean
• Storm damage with hanging branches
• Any tree you're uncertain about—peace of mind is worth an evaluation

The Decision Framework

When evaluating whether a tree should come down, professionals consider:

1. What's the likelihood of failure? Is this a "might fail someday" or "likely to fail soon" situation?
2. What would be affected if it failed? A tree falling into woods is different from a tree falling onto a house.
3. Can the risk be reduced without removal? Pruning, cabling, or reducing the target zone?
4. Is the tree worth preserving? Age, species, health, and significance to the property all factor in.

The Bottom Line

When in doubt, get a professional opinion. The cost of an evaluation is trivial compared to the cost of a tree failing—financially, legally, and potentially in terms of safety. A qualified arborist will tell you honestly whether your tree needs to come down or if it can be preserved.

If multiple professionals recommend removal, don't delay. A tree that's identified as hazardous doesn't become less hazardous with time—and the next storm, ice event, or strong wind could be the trigger.